I run towards the water with a board in hand
the water rushes threw my legs
like wind in a valley
and all is peaceful when I close my eyes
the only noise is the ocean breeze and the crashing of the waves
and I think in this peaceful state of my mind
what will happen today?
I know that the waves are never the same
every set is different
and today every set is bigger
I open my eyes again and it’s like I’m in a whole new world
I paddle out my arms like a watermill
and that’s when I see it
as blue as a berry
as big as a giant
and I know this is the one I’ve been waiting for
I race through the water to catch it
and when I do it’s amazing
I almost ride it all the way in
thats’s when I close my eyes and listen