What is beauty? During the Italian Renaissance it was a woman with wide hips, as it indicated she would be a great a great child bearer. During the 1960s, Twiggy’s thin frame, clumpy lashes and beehive took the world by storm; 2016 was filled with innovative K-beauty and last year Rihanna's inexclusive beauty line changed what diversity means. “Innovative” and “inclusivity,” two words associated with each yet do not always travel together. In Asia, the largest and highest populated continent on the planet, it is home to various to cultures, religions and ethnicities. Yet, there is unifying factor among the 48 countries - favoritism towards lighter skin.

As a result of colonization, colorism and classism, lighter skin has been associated with both power and leadership in the continent. British colonization has caused a division between the people which lingers on today. If one were to research a skincare or makeup item, they would end up seeing some recommendation for a K-beauty item. Now what is K-beauty? The phrase is the shortened form of “Korean beauty’ has been highly acclaimed for its “function cosmetics,” makeup and skincare that not only makes one want to use them but has added benefits (Liu). Thousands of people have turn K-beauty to rid themselves of their skin concerns hoping to achieve the youthful glow sported by many Korean celebrities and artists alike. But the innovative product ranging from sheet masks, essences, ampoules to BB and CC creams and cushion compacts are not always pigmentation friendly.

Remember earlier when it was said innovation does not always follow inclusivity hand in hand, well K-beauty and Asian cosmetics in general are a prime example of this. Korean beauty products which boast the claims of anti-aging, anti pollution, sun protection, skin evening and depuffing do not come in more than three shades of ivory. Supposing that one would go to buy a Korean foundation boasting the claim of skin improvement over time, chances are they would be most likely choosing from shades No. 21 and No. 23, two color carried by all companies yet only truly fits a small percentage of the population. Today Korea also accounts for 18% of the global  skin whiteners. Admitting it is not all companies that only create a limited range of shades, as there are a few who have a larger range but at the cost of an expensive price tag. This can create annoyance and hostility within the customer who may feel overwhelmed finding a product that fits them and does not cost upwards to hundreds of dollars. Earlier this year a Korean Youtuber, Jella known for her tan skin released a foundation with company Holika Holika similar to Nars Tahoe, a medium-dark shade with caramel undertones. The foundation sold out soon after it was released in Korea. If that type of response of Korea a country that is supposedly homogenous in skin tone, then both companies and people need to begin to think another way about its population diversity.

On the other hand, Korea is not only to blame the colorism in Asia. Countries such as India are infamous for having limited shade ranged that rarely fit its large, deep complexioned population. Anyone of south Asian ethnicity most probably had heard and seen the usage of Fair & Lovely. An extremely common skin whitening product, worth more than 400 million dollars that has been used by thousands of women in India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, etc hoping to achieve lighter skin tone. In an op-ed Jasleen Bain, laments about how even thousands of miles away from India, colorism affected her negatively. She shares how her darker complexion made her feel as a subordinate to the actresses and models she saw on screen. She refers to how comments she thought were harmless were actually comments to keep her complexion as light as possible. Both Bain and Suhasini Jha in “On India’s Increasing Favoritism for Fair Skin” blame European colonization of the country for its harsh beauty standards. Both authors refer to how during British Imperialism and colonization, those of lighter complexions were closer to the whites who held power. This notion of complexion and power became integrated into society and has caused those of lighter complexions to prosper while those of a darker tone are shamed.

Jha further goes into the colorism in India’s society mentioning how the “chocolate-hued beauties” of the indian have been replaced by caucasian models who look better and are skinnier. The author mentions Sabyasachi, an elite fashion brand whose latest collection was modeled by Russian model Eugeniya Belousova. The designer remarked how a brand can have the international look of power and success globally only through a European model. The vibe can not be given off by any other model. Jha then proceeds to mention a model, Renee who resembles Rihanna, yet only got one third of the work her fairer counterparts got because of her complexion. Renee recalls having photoshoots with her makeup being three to four shades lighter and then being heavily photoshopped. Her story is a similar one many girls have felt growing in their south Asian household. Many have stories of seeing their mothers buying and wearing complexion products that were definentaly lighter than their skin tone. Tales also include not being allowed to go swimming in the summer because they would be going back to see their family member in either India or Bangladesh and they could not become darker. Colorism also play a large role in marriage proposals, with on of the first questions being asked about the potential bride or groom being their skin tone. Girls and boys of a lighter skin tone being favored as a potential future spouse over someone of a tan or deep complexion. Colorism persists in countries such as India years after colonization has been removed but change is not coming quick enough to a country made up of tax complexions.

Now one may say that the importance of self love and self assurance has quickened the pace of eliminating colorism. Jella, in various videos, has referred to being considered a role model for girls of tanner complexions. Renee says she is happy to be part of rewriting India’s beauty norms (Jha). Bains says that she will honor her complexion and disregard those who say otherwise. Another reason why colorism may persist is not because of society but more so because of the formulation of products. The BB and CC creams referred to earlier are hailed for their protective qualities yet these same qualities, make it difficult to produce various shades (Diaz). The complexion products are generally made with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to create the SPF yet these compounds are generally pure white making it difficult to add darker pigments to it. There are ways to get around the problem, as there are other compounds that can produce the darker shades yet it brings up the final argument to colorism not being a substantial problem. The market for these products, the Korean market is made up of the same ethnic group who are very similar to each other, so they generally fit within the available ranges.  But if Jella’s foundation quickly sold out, what does that say about the representation of its people? If India’s general makeup ranges are made up of shades too light for its own population, then is colorism not prominent in Asia?

Colorism is a prominent problem in Asia. While current movements have helped darker complexions receive the love and attention they deserve, the problem still persists. If a company releases a darker shade and that is the first to sell out, that is problem. If a designer is changing its nation’s own model for those who give it a certain look, that is a problem. It is understandable that Rihanna’s inclusive foundation does not always work for every country and its population but it does not mean a country should neglect and divide its population because of their complexion. The largest, most populated continent of Asia is made up different ethnicities, cultures and religions. Unfortunately the different ethnicities and skin tones are not stopping from the countries to favor lighter  complexions over darker ones.