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Surfing
May 24, 2024
Surfing
At the beach.
Braving the waves.
Crashing.
Down.
Entering the white wash.
Fighting the water to stay up.
Gaining speed.
Here I am.
In the ocean.
Just paddling out.
Knocked around by the break.
Looking for a way past in between sets.
Mad waves attack me.
No way to dodge them.
Overturned.
Pushed underneath.
Quickly, panic induces.
Rolled, dragged underneath.
Starving for air.
There, kicking my feet.
Under, stuck, kicking for life.
Vital to swim.
Wanting to get to the surface.
X-treme fear.
Yearning for air.
Zoned in to escape.
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I am a surfer in eastern north Carolina and love to go out to the beach and catch some waves.